I love the original Li-Lac Chocolates, where my aunt Gig and my grandmother Chicky used to work when they were girls. They grew up in the West Village and got jobs as candy dippers in the ’20s or so. The way they dip the chocolate and swirl it on the top, every chocolate speaks to you. It’s a world of communication through confectionery. For example, dipped maraschinos have a certain swirl that’s different from caramels. How you spin the piece of fruit or candy in the air after you dip it in chocolate determines whether this is a French roll, a mint crème or a vanilla crème.
Karen Duffy, or “Duff,” is a journalist, actor and bestselling author.