Located in the Time Warner Center on Columbus Circle, the sushi at Bar Masa is less expensive than the full service restaurant but just as delicious. Flickr/minwoo and Rafael Chamorro.
I’ve often said that cooking is a dominant act. It’s an alpha act. But eating should be a submissive act. And chefs are at their happiest when they go to a restaurant and know someone in charge is cooking well. When that happens, I can completely switch over to the other side and experience it washing over me. I know I’m in good hands. And great meals are simple things. That explains why so many chefs are kooky for sushi. There’s no disguising it. It’s either great or it isn’t. There’s no artifice. No cute puddles of sauce. So when I want to reward myself with sheer self-indulgence, I will go alone to Masa’s sushi bar and say “give me whatever’s good.”